I’ve just returned from Turkey, and having had a wonderful and educational experience would love to share it with you. My friends and I decided to travel around southeastern Turkey because of our slight time constraint. I didn’t know quite what to expect of Turkey. All I knew was that the people spoke Turkish and continue to have strong national pride in both their country and former first president Atatürk. What I soon realized was how much culture and language sharing went on in the past between Turkey and Arab countries and continues until now. Many of the food traditions are very similar, especially the sweets (baklava), constant drinking of tea, and of course the Kebabs. Another similarity is their hospitality. All in all, the Turkish people are wonderful. Despite the occasional word or two that the Turkish and Arabic languages have in common, it was very hard to communicate. Luckily my roommate Will knew a bit of Turkish from his time teaching English there. He was our interpreter throughout the trip. When we first arrived in Antakya, I remember feeling relieved when some of the hotel workers would speak Arabic. It was pretty cool that Arabic could be our common language for a change instead of English.
As I said, Antakya was our first stop. Formally known as Antioch, Antakya is a beautiful small city set in a valley. The mountains surrounding the city are dotted with houses with red-tiled rooftops and is also the place where the ancient and well-preserved “St. Peter’s Cave” is located, carved into one of the mountainsides. Unfortunately when we arrived, there had been a rock fall earlier and the cave was closed to visitors. Men were working on the cliffs above it in order to prevent further damage. All I got were a few pictures to at least give an idea of what the area surrounding the cave looks like. Take a look at the Flickr site for those pictures. After the disappointment of not seeing the cave we went to the Mediterranean coast and swam for a while to cool off. The sand was unbelievably hot and the weather was a bit unbearable. Consequently we didn’t stay long and headed back to Antakya proper to take cool showers and wash the salt off us. We stayed one more night watching the Turkey-Germany semi-finals game in which Turkey lost and decided to head off to another city the next day.
Gaziantep was our next stop. It is one of Turkey’s largest cities and is known for its pistachios and baklava. The rumors were correct, delicious. The city also has a bit of a European feel. The night we arrived we had a couple drinks near the city’s citadel and met some young Turkish men who invited us to sit, drink beer, and eat pistachios with them. They didn’t speak much English. However, I soon realized that soccer (football) is a universal language, and one of the guys knew just enough English to communicate that he loved the Liverpool soccer team. I think I can summarize the extent of the evening’s conversation into four words, “I Love You Liverpool.”
The next city was east of Gaziantep, and it was called Saniurfa (or Urfa for short). We arrived at night and just walked around a bit. We wandered into what we found out was the city’s claim to fame. It was a beautiful and enormous garden surrounded by ancient mosques and the city’s citadel, but the most famous place was one of the mosques situated along a fish pond. It was especially beautiful at night with the yellowish-orange lights shining on it. They call it Ibrahim’s pond (or Abraham’s pond), and it is said to be one of the pagan areas that Abraham traveled to in order to cleanse and speak truth after his encounter with the one true God. Harran, one of the cities Abraham lived, is actually only 30 miles from Urfa (the place we were). We went back the garden the next day to see what we missed the night before. I had the chance to sit in a mosque and observe a typical Muslim service. It was a very tranquil and reverent time and I’m glad I had the opportunity to experience it.
That night we headed back west to the Euphrates River where there is a small quiet village. This would be our last night in Turkey, and it was definitely worth it. The river had recently been subjected to Turkey’s construction of the Atatürk Dam, which caused the water level to rise significantly. In fact the government evacuated the entire lower portion of the city and relocated it a couple miles from the city center. Needless to say, the river completely covered this portion of the city. It was a bit spooky. There was one mosque that was right at a point where the water covered only the bottom of it. So the mosque cannot function any more, but it still attracts locals and visitors like myself who walk in and around it for viewing pleasure.
That evening we made our way back to Syria, but it turned out to be a longer journey than we expected. We made it to Syria fine, but we had quite an experience at the border trying to get back in. I had anticipated problems but did not know how it would all play out.
The Syrian government requests that its visitors obtain visas from their home country prior to traveling to Syria. I did so however my visa expired upon leaving the country a second time, so I needed another one. When this situation occurs, and in my case, the person must wait at the border while the Syrian officials there send faxes back and forth to higher officials in Damascus requesting approval for visa issuance. This process takes anywhere between 1 to 8 hours depending on the person and the mood of the Syrian officials handling the situation. My case took around four hours, but the experience was something I’ll remember forever. We were taken to the boss’s office and my situation was discussed. During the discussion tea was offered to us to which we gladly accepted. After this they brought us to another room with beds and chairs to relax while we waited. After a couple hours, the border officials brought out a delicious meal and cold water, and we ate together. (I’m sorry fellow Americans, but this would never happen at American border-crossing stations for non-American visitors under suspicion). The men were extremely sweet and continually asked if we needed anything. Once I was cleared I bought my visa and we were off to Damascus. It was a very pleasant experience to say the least.
My next course starts in a couple days and will last one more month. I look forward to being home with you all, but will surely enjoy the rest of my time here.
Much love,
Jon
Monday, June 30, 2008
Monday, June 23, 2008
Monday June 23rd, 2008
Hello friends and family,
I hope you are all well. It has been over a month since I first arrived in Syria. Time has definitely moved fast. I think taking classes has contributed to that. I am already finished with my first course, and I take the exam tomorrow. Hopefully I will pass, as classes here are much more intensive than back home. I think the education system here is pretty intense in general. For example, the English material that my conversation partner is learning at the moment is rather challenging. I'd say I am learning some new things from it as well. I am really enjoying my tutoring exchange with Khalil. It has led me to believe that I would enjoy teaching English as a second language at some point in my life, maybe in the Middle East.
After my exam tomorrow, I will travel to southern Turkey with a few classmates/friends during our short holiday from classes. Stay tuned as I will definitely tell you about my experience there and of course share pictures. As a side note, will you keep my friends and I in your prayers as it is common for Americans to face annoyances at the Syrian border upon re-entering the country (some foreigners have been refused entry for no good reason). I would greatly appreciate it.
I was originally going to travel to Lebanon, but for a few reasons decided to go to Turkey instead. I will hopefully get the chance to visit Lebanon before I come back home.
Last weekend I traveled north to a city called Hama, famous for its ancient Norias (or "waterwheels"). It's a somewhat quieter city with some beautiful gardens and the Orontes River which runs through it. When I arrived I was dropped off in the "suburbs" of the city and therefore had no idea where to go from there. I somewhat pictured the city to be much smaller. I proceeded to ask for directions from these boys standing near the side of the road. We must have "hit if off" as they offered to take me to the city center where my hotel was located. One thing led to another, and I ended up spending the whole evening with them (I know my wording may sound inappropriate, but I couldn't resist... it just flowed so naturally with my story. So, don't take it the wrong way). They were extremely friendly and nice enough to show me around town. We got some dinner at one of their favorite local restaurants, and we topped the evening off with some fresh juice and Nargileh (waterpipe or "Sheesha" or "Hookah"), a Syrian ritual.
That evening I had my first experience sleeping on a Syrian roof/terrace at my hotel. This is the cheapest way to sleep in Syrian hostels, though not the most comfortable. The next morning I checked out of the hotel and headed for the bus station where I would depart for Krak des Chevaliers, a crusader castle not too far from Hama. I met some other travelers on the way, thus we ended up traveling together. The castle was amazing, and I've posted some new pictures of it on my flickr site (link is at the bottom of my blog).
I thank you for your continued prayers and support.
Ma'a Salaama
I hope you are all well. It has been over a month since I first arrived in Syria. Time has definitely moved fast. I think taking classes has contributed to that. I am already finished with my first course, and I take the exam tomorrow. Hopefully I will pass, as classes here are much more intensive than back home. I think the education system here is pretty intense in general. For example, the English material that my conversation partner is learning at the moment is rather challenging. I'd say I am learning some new things from it as well. I am really enjoying my tutoring exchange with Khalil. It has led me to believe that I would enjoy teaching English as a second language at some point in my life, maybe in the Middle East.
After my exam tomorrow, I will travel to southern Turkey with a few classmates/friends during our short holiday from classes. Stay tuned as I will definitely tell you about my experience there and of course share pictures. As a side note, will you keep my friends and I in your prayers as it is common for Americans to face annoyances at the Syrian border upon re-entering the country (some foreigners have been refused entry for no good reason). I would greatly appreciate it.
I was originally going to travel to Lebanon, but for a few reasons decided to go to Turkey instead. I will hopefully get the chance to visit Lebanon before I come back home.
Last weekend I traveled north to a city called Hama, famous for its ancient Norias (or "waterwheels"). It's a somewhat quieter city with some beautiful gardens and the Orontes River which runs through it. When I arrived I was dropped off in the "suburbs" of the city and therefore had no idea where to go from there. I somewhat pictured the city to be much smaller. I proceeded to ask for directions from these boys standing near the side of the road. We must have "hit if off" as they offered to take me to the city center where my hotel was located. One thing led to another, and I ended up spending the whole evening with them (I know my wording may sound inappropriate, but I couldn't resist... it just flowed so naturally with my story. So, don't take it the wrong way). They were extremely friendly and nice enough to show me around town. We got some dinner at one of their favorite local restaurants, and we topped the evening off with some fresh juice and Nargileh (waterpipe or "Sheesha" or "Hookah"), a Syrian ritual.
That evening I had my first experience sleeping on a Syrian roof/terrace at my hotel. This is the cheapest way to sleep in Syrian hostels, though not the most comfortable. The next morning I checked out of the hotel and headed for the bus station where I would depart for Krak des Chevaliers, a crusader castle not too far from Hama. I met some other travelers on the way, thus we ended up traveling together. The castle was amazing, and I've posted some new pictures of it on my flickr site (link is at the bottom of my blog).
I thank you for your continued prayers and support.
Ma'a Salaama
Sunday, June 8, 2008
June 8th (another uncreative title)
The first bit of information I want to leave for you this evening deals with a realization I had recently, and how I can use it as a recommendation for anyone looking to study abroad in the future. What hit me the other day was something you'd think I would have noticed by now. Well I obviously didn't, hence me not expounding on it at a much earlier time here on my trip. I realized that it was the first time I haven't felt completely alone in my desire to learn Arabic. Sure, there are a couple good friends of mine back home that I've built relationships with through college who study the language as well. However, this is the first time it feels completely normal to study the language, and with people from all over the world. I recommend to anyone, specializing in any field, who has thought about studying abroad to seriously consider it. It is an amazing opportunity to build relationships with people from all over and with people who are excited and motivated by similar things as you. Oh, and of course you have the added bonus of learning about and participating in a new culture.
Secondly, I want to share with you about the wonderful new friend I've made here in Damascus. His name is Khalil and he approached me one afternoon at school with a proposition to have conversational exchanges. This is one of the very popular methods students choose to accompany there studies at the university. I considered it but didn't pursue it until I met Khalil. One of the things I noticed about him right away was his ability to speak in perfect Fushaa (Modern Standard Arabic) which is what we learn in school. The Arabic spoken by the majority of locals here differs quite a bit, so it is often difficult to communicate and practice on the streets. Long story short, I decided to take him up on the offer.
The exchanges have been going great and are very helpful. However, what I wanted to leave you with is more important and has had more of an impact on me than mere language practice. A couple days after I met Khalil he invited me, along with two other students he exchanges with, to have lunch with him at his home. First of all, he met us 20 minutes away from his house (meaning he had to leave his house, come meet us, and bring us back to his home)and paid for our transportation. Next, he welcomed us into his home and sat us in his "welcoming" room which his family only uses for guests. It is furnished with elegant Syrian furniture and is probably the coolest (temp.) place in the house as well. After giving us many glasses of water and juice and introducing us to his adorable children, Khalil brought out our lunch. It was more like a feast and was very delicious. We asked him how long his wife had been preparing this lunch, and he said that she had been working for the last 3 hours or so. Let me also tell you that this meal probably cost the equivalent of 1 or 2 weeks worth of food for the whole family!
The hospitality of the Arab people here is unbelievable. Sometimes it puts me in a situation where I actually feel horrible, because this family has sacrificed the little money they have to make me feel welcome as their guest.
If that isn't enough, I met Khalil after school today. I asked him if he wanted to have the conversation exchange over lunch, all the while planning to treat him to something and return the hospitality. However, when we finished and were ready for the bill he insisted on paying. I tried and tried to insist upon paying, but I couldn't win the battle.
I can only hope that I will learn from the goodness I've been shown here and bring it back home with me.
Until next time,
Jon
Secondly, I want to share with you about the wonderful new friend I've made here in Damascus. His name is Khalil and he approached me one afternoon at school with a proposition to have conversational exchanges. This is one of the very popular methods students choose to accompany there studies at the university. I considered it but didn't pursue it until I met Khalil. One of the things I noticed about him right away was his ability to speak in perfect Fushaa (Modern Standard Arabic) which is what we learn in school. The Arabic spoken by the majority of locals here differs quite a bit, so it is often difficult to communicate and practice on the streets. Long story short, I decided to take him up on the offer.
The exchanges have been going great and are very helpful. However, what I wanted to leave you with is more important and has had more of an impact on me than mere language practice. A couple days after I met Khalil he invited me, along with two other students he exchanges with, to have lunch with him at his home. First of all, he met us 20 minutes away from his house (meaning he had to leave his house, come meet us, and bring us back to his home)and paid for our transportation. Next, he welcomed us into his home and sat us in his "welcoming" room which his family only uses for guests. It is furnished with elegant Syrian furniture and is probably the coolest (temp.) place in the house as well. After giving us many glasses of water and juice and introducing us to his adorable children, Khalil brought out our lunch. It was more like a feast and was very delicious. We asked him how long his wife had been preparing this lunch, and he said that she had been working for the last 3 hours or so. Let me also tell you that this meal probably cost the equivalent of 1 or 2 weeks worth of food for the whole family!
The hospitality of the Arab people here is unbelievable. Sometimes it puts me in a situation where I actually feel horrible, because this family has sacrificed the little money they have to make me feel welcome as their guest.
If that isn't enough, I met Khalil after school today. I asked him if he wanted to have the conversation exchange over lunch, all the while planning to treat him to something and return the hospitality. However, when we finished and were ready for the bill he insisted on paying. I tried and tried to insist upon paying, but I couldn't win the battle.
I can only hope that I will learn from the goodness I've been shown here and bring it back home with me.
Until next time,
Jon
Monday, June 2, 2008
Monday June 2nd
Well, I was thankfully able to squeeze a weekend trip to Amman, Jordan to visit a good friend of mine. I was also fortunate enough to be able to meet some amazing people who are part of a non-profit organization there. I learned a lot about what this organization does and what it has accomplished in Amman. It has given me much needed insight as to what I would love to be a part of in the Middle East if and when that time comes. It has also stretched my narrow view of what missional work looks like in this part of the world. I still have much to learn, but I am so glad I decided to use my last entry on my visa for this past weekend's endeavor.
Of the few locals that I met, Jordainians are very hospitable. Most of them were able to speak English more fluently than the locals that I've encountered here in Damascus. I wonder if Syria will eventually become as effected by Western influence as Jordan obviously has. If it does, it won't be for a very long time. As my friend put it, "When you step into Syria, it's like your going back 300 hundred years." This fact, however, has also been one of the reasons I believe Syria is still said to have some of the most hospitable and simple people in the Middle East, arguably.
Classes have been going very well so far. They are very challenging and place emphasis on conversation. I am very pleased with this, because conversation is probably the weakest area in my language skills at the moment. Grammar for me comes more naturally, whereas listening and speaking does not. Most of the conversations in class are collaborative, so many people end of stating their opinion when it's all said and done. I've heard that it's a little annoying to be an American for this reason. Many of the higher level courses end up tearing apart the US and its involvement in the Middle East. I'm not sure if the students in my level (including myself) are fluent enough in the language to make their arguments comprehensive. However, I don't think this leaks into daily interactions with American students such as myself. I am treated well and respected by all the students I've encountered. It seems that it's more something that stays in the classroom as far as "America Bashing."
Final note:
I'd love to answer ANY questions you have for me. In the event that you have a question, leave it in the form of a comment on my blog post. Then, I will try to answer it in my next post. OR if you'd rather communicate with me via email, I've written my personal email in one of the prior posts so feel free to use that method as well.
Have a great week
fi 'Isa
Jon
Of the few locals that I met, Jordainians are very hospitable. Most of them were able to speak English more fluently than the locals that I've encountered here in Damascus. I wonder if Syria will eventually become as effected by Western influence as Jordan obviously has. If it does, it won't be for a very long time. As my friend put it, "When you step into Syria, it's like your going back 300 hundred years." This fact, however, has also been one of the reasons I believe Syria is still said to have some of the most hospitable and simple people in the Middle East, arguably.
Classes have been going very well so far. They are very challenging and place emphasis on conversation. I am very pleased with this, because conversation is probably the weakest area in my language skills at the moment. Grammar for me comes more naturally, whereas listening and speaking does not. Most of the conversations in class are collaborative, so many people end of stating their opinion when it's all said and done. I've heard that it's a little annoying to be an American for this reason. Many of the higher level courses end up tearing apart the US and its involvement in the Middle East. I'm not sure if the students in my level (including myself) are fluent enough in the language to make their arguments comprehensive. However, I don't think this leaks into daily interactions with American students such as myself. I am treated well and respected by all the students I've encountered. It seems that it's more something that stays in the classroom as far as "America Bashing."
Final note:
I'd love to answer ANY questions you have for me. In the event that you have a question, leave it in the form of a comment on my blog post. Then, I will try to answer it in my next post. OR if you'd rather communicate with me via email, I've written my personal email in one of the prior posts so feel free to use that method as well.
Have a great week
fi 'Isa
Jon
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